Clothes come out soaking wet. Here's why your washer won't spin.

A washer that runs the cycle but skips the spin leaves you with a tub full of wet, heavy clothes. The cause is almost always one of three things. Start with the cheapest.

Step 1 — Check the lid switch (top-loaders only)

Top-load washers won't spin if the lid switch doesn't think the lid is closed. Open the lid and find the small plastic post on the lid that pushes a switch in the chassis when closed. With the lid open, press the switch manually. If you don't hear a click, it's likely failed.

Replacement is $10–$20 and takes 15 minutes. This is the most common spin issue on top-loaders by a wide margin.

Step 2 — Check the drive belt

Front-load and some top-load washers use a rubber drive belt. Tilt the washer back (or remove the rear access panel) and look at the belt around the motor pulley and drum pulley. A stretched, cracked, or broken belt won't transfer torque to the drum.

Replacement belts are $15–$25 and model-specific. Make sure you note the part number on the old belt.

Step 3 — Check the motor coupler (direct-drive top-loaders)

On older direct-drive top-load washers (Whirlpool, Kenmore), the motor connects to the transmission via a small plastic-and-rubber coupler. These wear out. When they do, the motor spins but the drum doesn't. If you hear the motor running fine but no drum motion, this is the suspect.

Replacement couplers are $10–$15 but the job takes about 30 minutes and involves laying the washer on its front.

Less common, but possible

• Clogged drain pump — if water won't drain, the spin won't start. Check the drain filter.
• Failed door lock (front-loaders) — same logic as the lid switch.
• Control board — last resort; expensive and worth confirming with a tech before buying.